THE BEST OF FASHION MONTH SS18

And breath… With another fashion month done it will be interesting to see which trends trickle down onto the high street next season. In my previous post I focused on the trends of NYFW, in which I expressed my disappointment on what the start of the season had to offer. Unfortunately the rest of the season didn’t fill me with much hope for SS18. I was disappointed by the humdrum, unexciting and monotonous looks on display! It is clear that once many designers find a style that works for them their collections just become slight variations of the same thing, and I couldn’t help but feel let down by some of my favourite designers.

There also appeared to be a clear display of location over substance, with many designers focusing on their show’s location rather than their show’s substance. Chanel and Saint Lauren were clear offenders of this crime, (don’t even get me started on the cheap, tacky, plastic hats, boots and gloves at Chanel!).

But I wasn’t completely discouraged by this past fashion month, some designers made sure their work stood out. As stated in my previous post Stuart Vevers’ put on a spectacle at Coach’s SS18; currently one of my favourite fashion houses. My other favourites from NYFW can be found in my previous post; but here are some of favourite looks from LFW, MFW and PFW:

VERSACE SS18 READY-TO-WEAR MFW

I it’s safe to say that the Versace SS18 was a momentous occasion in fashion history, never mind just being the highlight of fashion month. In this iconic show we saw Donatella Versace pay tribute to her late-brother, Ganni, bringing back some of his most memorable looks. It also saw the return of the original supermodels, Cindy, Claudia, Naomi, Carla and Helena all draped in gold. It was a beautiful, luxurious explosion of colour, style and glamour that will be hard to top.

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ASHISH SS18 READY-TO-WEAR – LFW

Ashish’s spooky SS18 collection has got me feeling like the next supreme (sorry for all those non-AHS fans). Ashish is constantly serving looks that have got me hyped – if sequins, red and black are involved I’m bound to be hyped. The Deli-born designer is becoming one of my favourites, with each show presenting something equally as new and exciting as the last.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR SS18 READY-TO-WEAR PFW

I must say I am in di-awe of how many different variations of her signature tule gown Maria Grazia Chiuri can produce. Each time it appears on her runway I am pleased by its new form. This season we saw tule accompanied with denim, sequins, leather and tweed. Its hard to believe that one show could embody so many different looks, from French girl chic to biker chick to ballerina esque, Niki de Saint Phalle inspired, ballgowns. Chiuri provided an exuberant, glistening, aesthetically pleasing collection that stood out in this mundane fashion month.

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GUCCI SS18 READY-TO-WEAR MFW

Alessandro Michele’s Elton John, 80’s inspired collection was as flamboyant as ever with an abundance of fur, sequins and fiercely vibrant colours on display.  Michele has admitted that he finds it hard to evolve his aesthetic further, but this show could suggest that he is starting to do so. I hope next season he evolves it even further to avoid it becoming overdone.

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LOUIS VUITTON SS18 READY-TO-WEAR PFW

I was not overly impressed with the Louis Vuitton collection as a whole, but one item stood out for me… The Stranger Things Tee! As a massive fan of the Netflix original series, I couldn’t not include it on my fashion month round-up post. I desperately need this tee in my life, I am hoping some of the High Street stores make a more affordable variation of this.

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Photos – Indigital

 

THE BEST OF LFW AW17

Pre-Doris, stylish Brits lined the streets of London hopping from one show to the next in what can only be described as a fashion frenzy. The designers of LFW reflected the high-standards and political activism of NYFW. We saw anti-Trump slogans projected in glitter at the Ashish AW17 show and Mary Katrantzou pay homage to Walt Disney’s third feature length animation, Fantasia, in sequin embroidery and velvet. LFW was a true celebration of British talent and all it has to offer, setting the standards ever higher for Milan.

Ashish AW17 Ready-to-Wear

This Indian-born designer is not afraid to make political statements on the runway. Following the Brexit vote that divided Britain, Ashish dedicated his SS17 collection to the immigrant community in Britain. The source for this seasons inspiration can be found in the protests following the inauguration of America’s controversial new President. With a rainbow palette, sequins and catchy slogans of resistance, Ashish pays respect to those marginalised by the oppressive Trump administration. Ashish is not afraid to use his platform as a designer to inspire and unify the masses, an approach more designers should follow.

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Mary Katrantzou AW17 Ready-to-Wear

Mary Katrantzou’s latest velveteen collection was like something you’d find in a fairytale, paying tribute to the master of animation’s third feature length film, Walt Disney’s Fantasia. Disney’s magical creatures are woven in to the sequin embroidered dresses, jacquard knee-length coats and soft velvet pantsuits. These exquisite pieces are every Disney-fanatics dream and are likely to ingnite the child at heart in everyone.

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Ashley Williams AW17 Ready-to-Wear

There appeared to be a hidden message behind Ashely William’s latest collection, on a not so hidden agenda. With Stetson cowboy hats fit for the wild West and preppy varsity style jackets branded with the words ‘misery’, I couldn’t help but interpret such as a political commentary of Trump’s America. It appears that the up-and-coming fashion brands, like Ashish, have no fear when it comes to standing up for whats right, whilst the established fashion-houses hide behind their prestigious names.

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House of Holland AW17 Ready-to-Wear

I was drawn to Henry Holland’s eye catching 60’s inspired collection as soon as I saw a flash of pale candy-floss pink, my all-time favourite colour (0f the moment). Like others, inspiration can be found in American culture, with funky non-conventional cowboy boots littered with cherries and vibrants colours, accompanied by checkered dresses with pointed collars, a homage to the British ’60s pop-scene. This exciting collection is bound to add a pop of colour to your bland monochrome winter wardrobe.

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FAVOURITE COLLECTIONS FROM LFW SS17

Mind the gap!

Its Saturday 17th September, day two of LFW, whilst I’m sat on the tiled floor of Euston station there’s a chill in the air, the temperature has plummeted to below mid-teens and the wind is starting to feel icier, you can feel the cold creeping into your bones – pathetic fallacy perhaps because I’m leaving my favourite city, during fashion week nonetheless. But it wasn’t just the weather that embodied a sense of change, it was the fashion too.

This week in our nations capital there was a theme of regeneration on the runway, with smaller fashion houses making waves within the industry, fresh talent being revealed at the Kingston University Ma show and Burberry unveiling its highly anticipated ‘see-now, buy-now’ collection. In a city that was in utter dismay at the heart of a divided country following the vote in June, LFW offered a sense of unity and patriotism that seemed to have disappeared following the Brexit vote. It was out with the woe with a celebration of British talent, enabling us to have a more positive future outlook. Like NYFW, LFW was full of surprises with bejazzled crocs creeping onto the runway in the Christopher Kane show housed in the former Bankside Power Station, now Britain’s finest and most acclaimed Modern Art Gallery… wait does that mean bejazzled crocs are art?! Hmm it’s a no from me, but I can’t deny they were one hell of a fashion statement! Again, I could ramble on about all London had to offer this season, but I won’t! Placing myself under strict instructions to be as concise as I can, I am only going to share my thoughts on my favourite collections from this absolutely fabulous and marvellously British week.

Burberry SS17 ‘See-Now, Buy-Now’ – Tuesday 19th September 2016

Its safe to say that every LFW the Burberry show always acquires the most hype and this weeks was no exception. If anything this Virginia Woolf inspired show was probably the most highly anticipated in Burberry’s history as it was the debut of the brand’s ‘see-now, buy-now’ collection. All eyes were on Christopher Bailey’s landmark collection set to change the seasonal fashion calendar and it did not fail to disappoint. Despite its Elizabethan style, this gender fluid collection was sure to appeal to the modern millennial. The collection based on Woolf’s classic Orlando: A Biography which follows the journey of a poet as he transitions from a man to a woman embodied and embraced modern values and societal acceptance of gender fluidity. This collection also saw the merge of furnishing and fashion with curtain tassels, carpet patterns and luxurious silks and satins making an appearance. The disused book shop which housed the show was like a scene from a British stately home, floored with elegant olive green carpet, accompanied by a live orchestra and choir perfectly conveying the theme. This was a truly British send off to a truly British week.

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Mary Katrantzou SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Sunday 18th September 2016

*sings* Who put the glad in Gladiator? Mary Katrantzou’s SS17 collection certainly did! This vibrant Grecian collection immediately caught my eye, evoking memories of the good old days sat in front of the TV watching Disney’s Hercules on repeat. I could see the muses in the Grecian vase prints, Megara embroidered in iridescent sequins and on closer observation (Look 1) an embroidered Hercules himself accompanied by his trusty companion Pegasus in the Temple of Zeus. There was a juxtaposition of old and new with ancient Greek prints on pop-art geometric prints. This groovy Grecian collection was a treat for the eyes and I enjoyed the nostalgia it brought with it.

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Ashley Williams SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Friday 16th September 2016

This ‘80s inspired collection completely disproves the phrase “Acceptable in the ‘80s”, which implies that the unique style of the era should remain, well, in that era. This collection brought back the very best fashion trends the ‘80s had to offer with puffed selves, varsity jackets, blinging diamond earrings and tributes to ‘80s heartthrob River Phoenix, Malibu Barbie and the hit show Saved by the Bell. This fun, vibrant collection is sure to evoke a sense of nostalgia in any ‘80s teen. The super cute stuffed animal accessories, sparkling chokers and clips keeping in the ‘80s dos were also not to be missed. Looking through this fun, energetic, youthful collection had me subconsciously humming Cyndi Lauper’s Girls Just Want to Have Fun and made me want to pop round to my grandparents to find some ‘80s treasures they’ve been hoarding away.

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Ashish S17 Ready-To-Wear – Monday 19th September 2016

The Brexit vote this summer not only divided the country but further alienated members of the community. The rise of racial attacks and hatred following the vote made many valued members of society who had migrated to Britain feel unwelcome in their own home, this is something which no one should ever be made to feel. However, the rise in hate crimes did not stop Indian-born designer, Ashish Gupta, who migrated from Delhi in 1996, from paying homage to his roots and demonstrating how Britain thrives from a rich, diverse, multi-cultural society. This collection saw the fusion of Eastern and Western cultures with delicately embroidered churidars partnered with preppy slogan t-shirts. This collection truly was a celebration of the migrant community in Britain, who I hope know are very much valued by many.

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Temperley London SS17 Ready-To-Wear -Sunday 18th September 2016

Temperley London’s flirty candy coloured collection contextualised the conventional idea of beauty. Filled with intricate floral embroidery and sparkling sequins, I hope this collection, like Monique Lhuillier, graces its way onto the red carpet this coming award season. These dazzling pieces would make any girl feel like a winner, whether or not accessorised with a golden statue in hand.

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Kingston University Ma SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Friday 16th September 2016

The Kingston University Ma show offered a breath of fresh air and positivity which ousted the doom and gloom that has lingered following the vote to leave the EU in June. This celebration of British talent offered an insight into the creative and unique minds of those who may just be the next McQueen, Westwood or Bailey. From asymmetric floral embroidered coats to vibrant and one-of-a-kind prints and patterns, the future of the British Fashion Industry is looking very promising and offers a sense of hope in these dark and uncertain times.

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LFW was full of fresh new talent and like NYFW was littered with diverse and unique talent. This week has truly been a celebration of British talent and has provided a positive insight into what the future holds.

Next stop – Milan, which can only mean one thing… GUCCI!!