THE BEST OF FASHION MONTH SS18

And breath… With another fashion month done it will be interesting to see which trends trickle down onto the high street next season. In my previous post I focused on the trends of NYFW, in which I expressed my disappointment on what the start of the season had to offer. Unfortunately the rest of the season didn’t fill me with much hope for SS18. I was disappointed by the humdrum, unexciting and monotonous looks on display! It is clear that once many designers find a style that works for them their collections just become slight variations of the same thing, and I couldn’t help but feel let down by some of my favourite designers.

There also appeared to be a clear display of location over substance, with many designers focusing on their show’s location rather than their show’s substance. Chanel and Saint Lauren were clear offenders of this crime, (don’t even get me started on the cheap, tacky, plastic hats, boots and gloves at Chanel!).

But I wasn’t completely discouraged by this past fashion month, some designers made sure their work stood out. As stated in my previous post Stuart Vevers’ put on a spectacle at Coach’s SS18; currently one of my favourite fashion houses. My other favourites from NYFW can be found in my previous post; but here are some of favourite looks from LFW, MFW and PFW:

VERSACE SS18 READY-TO-WEAR MFW

I it’s safe to say that the Versace SS18 was a momentous occasion in fashion history, never mind just being the highlight of fashion month. In this iconic show we saw Donatella Versace pay tribute to her late-brother, Ganni, bringing back some of his most memorable looks. It also saw the return of the original supermodels, Cindy, Claudia, Naomi, Carla and Helena all draped in gold. It was a beautiful, luxurious explosion of colour, style and glamour that will be hard to top.

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ASHISH SS18 READY-TO-WEAR – LFW

Ashish’s spooky SS18 collection has got me feeling like the next supreme (sorry for all those non-AHS fans). Ashish is constantly serving looks that have got me hyped – if sequins, red and black are involved I’m bound to be hyped. The Deli-born designer is becoming one of my favourites, with each show presenting something equally as new and exciting as the last.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR SS18 READY-TO-WEAR PFW

I must say I am in di-awe of how many different variations of her signature tule gown Maria Grazia Chiuri can produce. Each time it appears on her runway I am pleased by its new form. This season we saw tule accompanied with denim, sequins, leather and tweed. Its hard to believe that one show could embody so many different looks, from French girl chic to biker chick to ballerina esque, Niki de Saint Phalle inspired, ballgowns. Chiuri provided an exuberant, glistening, aesthetically pleasing collection that stood out in this mundane fashion month.

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GUCCI SS18 READY-TO-WEAR MFW

Alessandro Michele’s Elton John, 80’s inspired collection was as flamboyant as ever with an abundance of fur, sequins and fiercely vibrant colours on display.  Michele has admitted that he finds it hard to evolve his aesthetic further, but this show could suggest that he is starting to do so. I hope next season he evolves it even further to avoid it becoming overdone.

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LOUIS VUITTON SS18 READY-TO-WEAR PFW

I was not overly impressed with the Louis Vuitton collection as a whole, but one item stood out for me… The Stranger Things Tee! As a massive fan of the Netflix original series, I couldn’t not include it on my fashion month round-up post. I desperately need this tee in my life, I am hoping some of the High Street stores make a more affordable variation of this.

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Photos – Indigital

 

THE BEST OF NYFW SS18

The start of September has most certainly brought with it a winter’s chill and a hint of orange to the trees, but to all followers of fashion the start of September means one thing, and one thing only, the start of Spring/Summer fashion week season. As always the season kicked off in NYC and I was eager to see what the designers in the Big Apple would bring to the SS18 table. However, the season did not begin with its usual bang and I was disappointed by the simplistic collections the designer had to offer. Whilst minimalism can be desirable, too much of it is just plain boring. It wasn’t until the second half of the week that my interest was peaked.

Stuart Vevers’ dazzling Coach X Keith Haring show full of satin, silks and sparkles was a treat for the eyes and restored my faith in the fashion industry. Not only was the collection doused in glitter but so was the runway, Vever’s transformed Basketball City into a sparkling paradise. Libertine’s SS18 collection did not disappoint also. Johnson Hartig tried his best to take everyone’s mind off recent turmoils and tragedy’s, and he succeeded with an energetic and uplifting show littered with glitter and vibrant colours. Oscar de la Renta also made sure that their show sparkled; delicate tulle ballgowns with intricate sequin embroidery could be found on the runway. And whilst I wasn’t fussed on the Alexander Wang collection, I, along with the rest of the world, was memorised by Kaia Gerber’s sassy supermodel-worthy walk. The young model, who made her runway debut at the Calvin Klein show at the start of the work, has clearly been taught some tricks by her supermodel mother, Cindy Crawford.

Whilst the week did get off to a slow start, it was saved by it’s finale. Let’s hope that LFW does not begin as mundanely as NYFW.

COACH 1941  SS18 READY-TO-WEAR

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DETAILS FROM @COACH’S INSTAGRAM

LIBETINE READY-TO-WEAR SS18

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OSCAR DE LA RENTA READY-TO-WEAR SS18

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KAIA’S WALK

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Honestly, I'm impressed by Kaia Gerber performace in Alexander Wang fashion show yesterday at NYFW 👏 I confess that before I thought Kaia was entering the industry on behalf of her mother, came in my mind nepotism, but yesterday she proved has talent. Look and watch this catwalk, I mean, she walks better than Kendall, Bella, Stella or Taylor, I'm impressed. She's only 16, she has to improve on some things like the arm movement but I see a lot of potential in her and I'm really hoping she'll grow and build a career for the talent she has. Maybe we can say that the fashion world is surviving, some talents are coming like Grace Elizabeth, Imaan and Vitto. Good luck in your long journey @kaiagerber 😊 thoughts?

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I also fell in love with Sandy Liang’s SS18 Ready-to-wear collection full of frills, lace, quilt and pastels.

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THE BEST OF NYFW FW17

As I sit in the stuffy concrete slab that is the university library, stylish men and women from across the globe scurry like mice from show to show whilst fighting the icy winds of a very snowy NYC. Determined not to let the freezing climate compromise their style, show-goers immerse themselves in the fashion frenzy that is NYFW. It all began with the return of one of my favourite fashion duos, Raf Simons and Pieter Mulier, at their debut Calvin Klein Collection show and it all ended with Marc Jacob’s old-school hip-hop inspired finale.

Calvin Klein Collection FW17

Raf Simons and his right-hand man Pieter Mulier kicked off their domination of the all-American brand, Calvin Klein, in true American style, literally. This colourful collection was a celebration of America’s past, present and future littered with motifs and symbols of its diverse history. Stiff denim shirts, oversized leather jackets and wrap shirts fashioned out of the American flag hit a home run when paying homage to the nations rich culture. Raf provided the brand with the exact regeneration that it needed. This collection offered a true insight into the brands future under new leadership.

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Marc Jacobs FW17

Marc Jacobs’ diverse array of models hit the streets of New York, utilising the concrete sidewalk as his very own catwalk to parade his ‘70s hip-hop inspired collection. It appears Jacobs took on board the backlash that came with the dreadlock controversy of his SS17 collection. Jacobs ensured his army of models comprised of those representing diverse cultures and origins. The neutral palette collection made up of oversized corduroy jackets, bellowing bell-bottom trousers, oversized ‘70s inspired bling accompanied by large Stephen Jones hats. Jacobs ended fashion week with a bang and set the standards high for London.

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 Coach 1941 FW17

Those attending Stuart Vevers’ FW17 show found themselves immersed in a post-apocalyptic derelict world were the all-American brand appeared to be the surviving attire. As always there was a star-studded front row with the likes of it-girls Emma Roberts and Selena Gomez making an appearance. Vevers signature floral patchwork dresses and oversized outerwear, made up of bombers, leather-clad jackets and varsity jackets, graced the runway once again. The British creative director has certainly found his voice at Coach, securing the brands new distinct style and establishing the brands prestige among the stars.

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Anniesa Hasibuan FW17

Anniesa Hasibuan has made history once again with her new FW17 collection. Hasibuan made the headlines following her first diverse collection, which was the first collection to be presented with hijabs at NYFW. This season the Indonesian designer made the conscious decision to only employ immigrants and second-generation immigrants to walk in her show following the controversial Muslim immigration ban put in place by the Trump administration. Enabling a sense of inclusion, acceptance and unity to be found following the implementation of the immigration ban. Hasibuan conveyed the true beauty of Islam with her exquisite collection and her bold casting criteria.

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Yeezy FW17

I must admit I have never understood the Yeezy attraction. The rapper’s ability to plagiarise and merely merge the signature looks of hottest brands of the moment has resulted in the production of bland collections which lack any real uniqueness. However, in Trump’s new America where bans and walls are put in place to keep diversity at a minimum I could not help but admire the rapper’s choice to use a female Muslim model who chooses to wear the hijab. A clear message that diversity and love will triumph in Trump’s America.

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CHRISTMAS COMES EARLY FOR FASHION LOVERS

Last week was fun filled and fashion packed with The Fashion Awards 2016, the airing of the Victoria’s Secret runway show, the revelation of Chanel’s Pre-Fall RTW 2017 Collection at the Ritz Paris and the 75th anniversary celebrations of the American brand, Coach.

Chanel Pre-Fall RTW 2017

The conscious decision of the current Creative Director, Karl Lagerfeld, to pick The Ritz, Paris, to house this year’s annual Métiers d’Art collection goes to the heart of the brand and indulges in its rich history. The ever-chic founder of the Parisian fashion house, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, was no stranger to the hotel and adored the lavish lodgings so much that she moved into a three-bed apartment within the facility and as Coco once stated “The Ritz is my home”. Therefore, it was perfectly fitting that this year’s show saw the brand return to its true home and heritage. Chanel’s signature tweed jacket accompanied by pedal pushers, flower crowns which rival any found on snapchat and glittering gold gowns were perfectly complemented by the luxurious interior of The Ritz. The sense of homecoming did not end with The Ritz, it also extended to the models as we saw the long-awaited return to the catwalk of Chanel-muse and British-beauty, Cara Delevingne. Whilst homage was paid to the brands past, we also saw into its future, with the likes of rising-Chanel star Lily-Rose Depp and Sofia Richie making their catwalk debut. Overall, Karl’s 2016 Métiers d’Art show was the perfect regeneration the brand needed after a year of suffering sales, paying tribute to the brands history and giving us a sense of what the future has to offer.

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Coach 75th Anniversary – Men’s and Women’s Pre-Fall 2017

Coach ended its 75th year with a star-studded runway show in the brands hometown, New York City. The epic show was housed in a large warehouse at Manhattan’s Pier 94, that was transformed into a façade of a small American town. The 70s inspired collection with a subtle colour palette of mustard, brown and red perfectly juxtaposed the vibrant flashy lights bearing tributes to American culture. Creative Director Stuart Vevers attempted to bring back the sense of hopefulness, optimism and the American Dream into a deflated and divided Country following the recent electoral results.

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FAVOURITE COLLECTIONS FROM NYFW SS17

And so it begins…

There’s a slight chill in the air which can only mean one thing… Spring/Summer ’17 fashion week season is upon us! My phone becomes (even more so than normal) a further extension of my arm, my battery life severely suffers and my Instagram following count rapidly increases. It all starts in the city that never sleeps, America’s capital of culture and arguably the world’s fashion capital, New York. With over 100 shows, events and presentations in such a short, snappy period I can only imagine the week is a blur of glitz, and glamour for those lucky enough to attend. NYFW wouldn’t be the same without some drama and controversy and this season was no exception. We were reminded that even models make mistakes like us mere morals when Bella Hadid took a tumble during the Michael Kors show, and tension was high following the use of dreadlocks in Marc Jacob’s show with no recognition of the culture who provided the iconic look. I could ramble on endlessly about all NYFW had to offer, but do not fear, I have resisted the urge to do so and I have disciplined myself. I am only going to share my thoughts on six of my favourite collections from NYFW.

Marc Jacobs SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Thursday 15th September 2016

First and foremost, is the electro-pop inspired Marc Jacobs SS17 ready-to-wear collection. Marc Jacob’s is in hot water after the use of pastel coloured dreadlocks from Etsy during Thursday’s show and has been accused of cultural appropriation. The designer’s response to such backlash has caused further outcry by failing to credit the black culture for the iconic look. Whilst I don’t agree with those in privileged and influential positions not using their status to address pressing issues; I can’t help but admire this fun, vibrant collection made up of sequins, suede, satin and more. Jacob’s inspiration from the party goers of the late ‘80s and ‘90s and their dedication to the cause wasn’t only evident in the killer ‘spice up your life’ platforms but also in the staging. The contrast of the pastel pallet with the dark and grungy runway, peppered with neon lights and accompanied by Underground’s Born Slippy in the background ensured homage was paid to the gritty urban rave scene of the ‘90s. This collection made me want to plaster myself in glitter, wear the brightest eye shadow I could find, grab my platforms and head to the club whilst bopping along to Insomnia by Faithless.

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Thom Browne SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Monday 12th September 2016

 Thom Browne threw a pool party that would rival that of Gatsby himself. This elaborate show, set in an underground space turned into a 1950s bath-house, filled with energetic colour-blocking which seemed to reflect the pop-art movement of the era, was sure to mesmerise its spectators. The trompe l’oeil effect merging the masculinity and femininity of the pieces in a single smooth seamless transition is both aesthetically pleasing and intriguing. The show stopper has to be the dog mirror embroidered headpiece, a homage to Browne’s dog – Hector, which reflects a love and commitment to man’s best friend that only fellow dog owners will truly understand. Needless to say Browne’s collection further solidified the relationship between fashion and art.

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Libertine SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Monday 12th September 2016

God save the Queen! Libertine’s SS17 collection consisted of a tribute to the anarcho-punk days that took our nation by storm in the mid-1970s, Bob Marley and other key culturally influential figures in society. It was the former that particularly caught my attention as it evoked nostalgic memories of my days at secondary school when I carried out a project on the British punk movement in textiles (I still have my final piece). The show was littered with prints of Liz herself, Union Jacks, neon rhinestones, hot pink fur and jackets embezzled with non-conformist slogans, all calling into question the conventional idea of beauty. Libertine is known for its creativity and this collection was no exception, reigniting the fire in the heart of any former punk.

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Coach SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Tuesday 13th September 2016

Stuart Vever’s Spring collection was the polar opposite to his preppy fall 2016 collection. This grungy, archaic look was unlike anything presented by the brand before and I have never really given the brands previous collections much recognition. It was a bold move but nonetheless a successful one, demonstrating the fluidity and diversity of the brand. Non-conformity to traditional values of beauty is a reoccurring theme of this season and this gritty, edgy collection complete with a runway peppered with automobile relics and destruction clearly received the memo. With multitudes of leather, silk, mesh there appeared a tribute to the 90s, along with a tributes to the collections muse Elvis Presley after the brand successfully acquired the rights from the singer’s estate. This collection also saw the return of the creepers, these iconic shoes made a re-appearance in 2010/11 and much to the dismay of my mother I jumped on the bandwagon and strutted round town in a pair of black suede creepers. I doubt I will dig them back out now they have graced the runway once again, I’m just grateful that this proves I wasn’t completely delusional since they have been given recognition on the runway. Whilst, I love admiring the art of fashion, I love it even more when a I come across a collection that is artistic but also extremely wearable and its safe to say the Vever’s spring collection has achieved such a balance. My favourite pieces from the collection being the silk embroidered bomber and the soft pink fur coat (as you will learn I love jackets and coats and I believe you can never have enough).

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Altuzarra SS17 Ready-To-Wear – Sunday 11th September 2016

Coach was not the only brand distancing itself from the norm in regards to its previous collections, Altuzarra followed suit. The SS17 collection was worlds away from its normal sharp business-like attire with this fun, youthful collection, full of bright, vibrant colours, flamingo style dresses and skirts and snakeskin blazers embroidered with varying mediterrian fruits. The retro ‘80s style hoops dangling besides the models perfectly symmetrical faces further fuelled the fun and playful theme. This collection reminded me of holidays in Spain and made me want to jet off to some exotic destination for a bit of fun in the sun.

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Monique Lhuillier SS17 Ready-To-Wear -Tuesday 13th September 2016

This collection is bound to make any girl lucky enough to own a piece feel like a princess with the candy pink colour scheme, the bellowing ball gowns sprinkled with silver heart embroidery here and there and the sequins, one must never forget the sequins! I hope this elegant collection will incorporate its way into the next award season, these dresses would be a perfect accompaniment to any red carpet and golden statute. They epitomise Hollywood glamour and I will be gravely disappointed if they are a no show at the coming award season.

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It is clear that NYFW had a lot to offer from gothic, grungy get-ups to fiesta attire to elegant ball gowns, and I can only hope London, Milan and Paris will match NY by offering an equal amount of diversity.